This week wraps up my internship with Yanapuma, a five-year old organization working in Ecuador to support sustainable community development. I was fortunate enough during my time here to travel to the community of Bua, outside of Santo Domingo de los Colorados, and work with the Tsa’chila indigenous group on their reforestation and organic family garden projects. My time in Bua was a much welcomed respite from the chilly mornings and busy streets of Quito and it has been an incredible experience.
There are reportedly less than 3,000 Tsa’chila remaining and Bua is one of only 7 communities left outside of the ever-sprawling city of Santo Domingo.* The people of Bua, along with the efforts of Yanapuma, are working to preserve their rich culture and way of life by promoting sustainable projects in the community in various areas such as agriculture, reforestation, health, and education.
The family gardens project is only in its first year and already shows great potential. Having worked on nutrition projects in Bolivia, I can say firsthand how difficult it is to successfully implement a project that attempts to alter ingrained eating habits or quotidian behaviors without being culturally insensitive, shortsighted, or ignorant to the concerns of the community. The workshops provided by Yanapuma and the trust they have earned from years working closely with the community have fostered a cooperative environment where the traditions and culture of the Tsa’chila are respected and given priority in all projects. I worked closely with Giovanni Toapanta Pauta, the Agricultural Program Director for Yanapuma, and a resident of Sto. Domingo, taking household surveys that attempt to determine what the families (in this case mostly the women and children) have learned since the beginning of the garden project and whether or not they have included any additional foods into their diets. I also worked with individual families to learn specific gardening techniques and how to prevent and address pests using organic methods. Currently, the families in Bua must take the 30 minute, bumpy road to Santo Domingo several times a week in order to buy their vegetables and other food supplies. If the project is successful, these families will benefit considerably from improved nutrition and additional income by selling their surpluses in town.
The same families are also participating in a reforestation project in which they are responsible for planting the seeds and maintaining the saplings of native tree species for replanting in areas previously degraded or deforested. This is beneficial to Yanapuma because as the community is familiar with each species and its particular care needs, they are better equipped to supply the saplings. The families will benefit from the project as they are compensated for their work at the end of the year when the saplings are purchased for replanting.
There are significant challenges, of course. The garden project is still very much dependent upon support from Yanapuma and the tireless efforts of Giovanni to stay up and running. While I am not discouraged by this, as it is only in its first year, it does mean that the project is still extremely fragile and any small failure threatens to exhaust the community’s willingness to devote their continued efforts to it next year. The major threat this year has been the climate. Unusually high amounts of dry-season rainfall have increased pest infestations and drown out several crops. That said, the success of several “star” gardens has sustained motivations for now. Time and continued efforts will determine the future of the project. If it succeeds and becomes a sustaining part of community life, it will greatly increase the food security and sovereignty of the community and even provide an additional source of income for the families. It has been a great pleasure working with such an impressive and warm community where I am welcomed and included in every activity. I look forward to following the developments of these important projects and wish the community a successful future.
*Information on Tsa’chilas taken from Yanapuma’s website at:www.yanapuma.org
Despite working for most of the day, we try to venture out into the city after work to take advantage of our time here. These pictures are from one of these many excursions. After walking waaaaay up what felt like a million and a half steps, we arrived at Itchimbía, or The Glass House, which is like the Kennedy Center of Quito. Here they hold temporary exhibits and cultural events. We unfortunately arrived as the building and the park were closing, but I sweet talked the guard into letting us snap a few pictures. Then we headed down the street to Café Mosaico, now one of my favorite restaurants in the city, for drinks and dinner. It has an amazing view!
So I suppose I will join Phil to break the ice and write about what everyone here spends about 75% of their waking hours doing, working. I know it is surprising to learn that between our weekly weekend getaways, our lives are not all that interesting. It is not all fun and games here in Quito! For 8 hours a day, five days a week we split up from our tight knit travel group and go off to our individual internships. Though a few people work at the same organizations, we all have different supervisors and completely different projects to work on. Once a week we gather at our hostel, the Owl’s Inn, to exchange internship experiences and discuss with Professor Clark the projects we are working on. These discussions offer the perfect time to learn from one another, offer advice on projects, find opportunities for collaboration, and receive general words of encouragement for each other. From these meetings I have realized that everyone is having their own unique work experience, some better than others, but all with positive and negative experiences that they can take away from their time here.
As our class came to an end last June, I was not sure what to expect when beginning my internship here at Fundación Natura Regional (FNR). I had had minimal contact with my future supervisor, Gabriel Lucio, and the FNR website offered very general information about their work. What exactly would I have to do? Who would I work with? Would I be qualified for the work they would give?! I was nervous and excited, but determined to put on a brave face and do my best. J I soon came to find out that FNR is a wonderful place to work and Gabriel is the most friendly, enthusiastic, and fun person that I could have as a supervisor.
FNR is an Ecuadorian NGO that works for “sustainable development through the creation of an equal, socially responsible, and economically viable society.” This organization is a relatively new NGO, founded within the past few years, which has completed projects working with binacional issues pertaining to the Ecuadorian-Colombian border. The main collaborators of their projects include people from FNR, Fundación Natura Ecuador, and Fundación Natura Colombia. It has recently completed a very successful project, “El Medio Ambiente y la Biodiversidad como Punto de Encuentro entre Actores Sociales deColombia y Ecuador,” that focused on binational dialogue between communities that share this border and using nature as a point of collaboration. As they look to begin new projects, they also hope to expand the scope of the organization to be more regional and include the Fundación Naturas of Bolivia and Peru. Other likely projects that the FNR hopes to implement include a project for the “Strengthening of social organization for environmental management and the development of governance, human rights, and ‘el buen vivir’ for the Épera nationality” and a project to develop a “Demonstrative system of alternative energy (bio-oil and biogas) for the farmers of the Sucumbíos province.”
I really believe in the work of this organization. It has been exciting, and sometimes confusing, being a part of their work during this time of transition. As Gabriel told me on my first day of work, “An NGO is nothing without its projects,” and I know that the work I do for them, reviewing project proposals and looking for possible funders, is critical for the future of the organization. Much of the information that I deal with is environmentally based, which I have little to no background in, but other research I do deals with the preservation of indigenous cultures and local development of their communities, a topic which I am most passionate about.
This internship has been more than just dipping my toe into an area I am unfamiliar with; it has been a cannonball into a sea of the unknown! I know I am growing and learning during every minute of this experience, and, though I do not envision myself working specifically with environmental issues in the future, I recognize the many skills that I am gaining from my work here that I will use in the future. My favorite part of my job is working with projects that address cultural issues as well as the basic language practice that I get everyday; from reading, writing, and daily interactions with the people in my office, as no one here speaks English. Also, learning the organizational structure of an NGO, practicing the proposal of projects for possible funders, as well as discussing projects with stakeholders are all priceless skills and experiences to have. All in all, my internship in Quito offers me an unforgettable experience that I appreciate and will remember for the rest of my life.
To my surprise, my co-workers cornered me in a room and asked me to be part of the office party planning committee. I thought of the creepy character Angela on the TV show The Office, who led this committee. I found her distasteful not only because of her coldness, but also because she obsessed over kittens dressed up as historical figures. Unlike Angela, the leader of the Party Planning Committee at FFLA (Fundación Futuro Latinoamericano) is the amiable Ecuadorian Magui. Magui is as sweet as a sugar covered beignet, but she gains an edge by rocking a two-toned red infused bouffant, and playing in a death metal band.
Magui asked me what game we should play for the wedding shower of our co-worker, Jackie. I thought for a while and suddenly our trip to Mindo popped into my head. In Mindo, the students and Professor Clark gestured boisterously and laughed for hours while playing charades, so I suggested we add this game to the wedding shower. At the party, we played charades by acting out activities that single folks do more while the other team acted out things that are more common among married folks. It was a hit (most of the activities we chose were relatively PG because Jackie is a Mormon but not all of the guesses were PG)!
Magui organized other games too, including one where every man in the office had to ask for Jackie’s “hand in marriage” to her “parents” (an older couple in the office played her “parents”). One co-worker said he was a plumber, but Jackie should marry him because he could offer her “parents” a few pigs. Another colleague said that he had four previous wives and seven kids and therefore experience made him the most eligible suitor. I picked up a fake flower and said that the flower symbolized my love for the “parent’s” “daughter” because the flower would never die (it was after all dead). I also said they should choose me because I was a gringo prince. I won the contest and people called me príncipe as I ate my dulce de leche prize.
The FFLA has a very nice atmosphere and many call their co-workers FFLA-milia (familia) -(although one co-worker with a good sense of humor says FFLA-tulencia (flatulencia)). Most of the FLLA-milia seem very proud of their work, which promotes constructive dialogue, educates citizens regarding relevant institutions and articulates process for sustainable development in Latin America. I am working on the Rio+20 convention, which is the new world sustainable development summit in 2012. My boss and I have had multiple meetings with high-ranking government officials and large international NGO’s in order to educate civil society about the new summit. It is challenging because the government is skeptical of working with civil society for fear of criticism, but it is extremely important because it often takes pressure from below for significant change to occur. I have learned a great deal about the challenges of environmentalism, negotiation and met several interesting people in my internship.
As I sat curiously at the restaurant table, a rush of thoughts with desires to taste new flavors of Ecuador overwhelmed and peppered my mind. Soon after a few bites, I felt submerged in an ocean of stimulating flavors. My taste buds woke up by the fresh nourishing richness, and the harmonious zests. The savor of well prepared vegetables, herbs, spices, grains, and palatable meats lingered in my mouth even after finishing the meal. The burst of the flavors carried a tune in my thoughts and inspired the colorful reflection of the land of ethnic diversities, fascinating cultures, and the hidden valleys of life simplicities and ethos.
Coming from a far distance, the rich diversity of Ecuador has constantly change my perception of the country, and my experience of Ecuador has been shaping amazingly… Traveling to Otavalo, the scenery of a meadow wasn’t the only breathtaking view that captured my attention. A young boy holding the end of a robe tied to a lama’s neck mesmerized me. Sheepishly looking at his face, I became hesitant to raise the camera to take a picture at first. His eyes reflected some seriousness… he was looking at me but it was as if he wasn’t seeing me. Dressed in Otavalan traditional garb:, poncho, well-pressed white pants, and a hat,, he was simply presenting one of the many unique identities of the Ecuadorian indigenous nations.
Identity is a curious notion. Suggesting a kind of unity within, it nonetheless reveals difference at the very core of the being. Reflecting further on that initial observation I had, I realize that coming to know diversity and indigenous people involves not so much discovery as creativity, and that we do not undertake the quest alone. That a human being needs to and can ask, "Who am I?" is related to the reasons we need to be and can be educated; need to and can develop moral consciences; can and do flourish in true democracy. These human projects are differentiated, but they need not be divided, in opposition, or sequential. On the contrary: given the chance to be in communication with each other, these projects can serve and significantly enhance each other. And, Ecuador offers us such a buffet of diversities so unique.
Peace...
PS. I finally did take a quick picture of the boy.
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| On an organic farm outside of Quito |
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| In the yellow bus on the way to Papallacta. |
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| At the Owl's Inn, home away from home. |
This last weekend we travelled to the small town of Salinas. This is not the Salinas of Hemingway on the lush California coast, but Salinas de Bolivar in the Ecuadorian highlands. The Ecuadorian Salinas is a charming village at an elevation of over 11,000 feet with quilt-like pastures that remind me of the bucolic scenery of Tuscany.
Salinas de Bolivar is an interesting example of community led and organized micro financing projects. An Italian priest, Padre Antonio Polo traveled to the town in 1972 and helped set up cooperatives that diversified the economy beyond the local salt mine with production of milk, cheese, chocolate, turrón candy, mushrooms, and herbs. The town is famous for 12 wild herbs and spices so the possibilities are limitless. They could even open up a KFC :)
Salinas also produces soccer balls. I thought it was interesting that some of the soccer balls made for export said, “Made in Japan” in English. I asked our guide if any part of the balls were made in Japan and he said no that they just put that on the balls because then they sold better in the markets. I just hope that no priest was involved in this engaño. :)
We stayed at the Refugio in town, which is operated by William Ramirez. William is a dignified man with salt and pepper hair. His George Clooney-like demeanor has likely wowed both foreign and local ladies alike. He is very proud of the time he has spent in Salinas and told me he is actually from Salinas. This is dubious however because he speaks Spanish with a European accent. Regardless of his roots, he gave us more fulfilling explanations about the Salinas cooperatives than our guide Patricio whose mellowness was so extreme that I wanted to check his pulse. His tranquil attitude made me wonder what kind of herbs Salinas really exported. :)
William explained to us that the workers in the various industries make minimum wage while those that bring their product to the cooperatives (milk, spices, herbs etc.) earn money based on the weight of their goods. He said the cooperatives are constantly struggling and that the gray in his hair is not a result of old age, but rather stress. William told us that when the cooperatives began to sell turrón candy, a man from the lowland town of Ambato came to Salinas and asked for 10 large boxes of turrónes. The man said he would only accept a very low price because the market was so bad. The cooperative accepted the low price, but after the man left they questioned why the man would buy 10 large boxes if the markets weren’t good. They soon realized that they were taken advantage of.
William emphasized that they have learned a great deal and that the town is not engaged in projects, but rather they are part of a process of development. The cooperatives have struggled with exporting artisanal products abroad because they are competing with more efficient and mechanized Chilean and Argentinean companies. Still, earnings from the cooperatives have built roads, schools, and contributed to the welfare and greater equality of the community. Salinas has been largely successful due to land reform, access to credit, expansion of educational opportunities, infrastructure, promotion of agricultural diversification and the sharing of profits.
The Salinas cooperatives have thrived, but they depend on strong leadership and consensus. The long-term comparative advantage of Salinas is questionable because the emphasis is on “buen vivir” (good living) rather than efficiency. One has to ask if it possible that the larger producers will become so much more efficient than Salinas that Salinas will be unable to compete in international markets? Despite the potential fragility of the Salinas cooperatives, they are part of a process and it is indubitable that they will continue to evolve and adapt. I hope that Salinas continues to succeed with the communal solidarity that has held them together for the past 40 years and provides a small-scale alternative to the massive consumption and production of modern society, which we know is definitely not sustainable.
Ecuador might be a small country, weighing in at only 109,483 sq miles and roughly 14 million in population, but its land and its people have experienced more challenges and evolution in a decade than some countries have in a century. Within the shifting tides of influences over the Ecuadorian people, some interesting contrasts emerge that can only make one question how on earth the people here can build a consensus as to their collective identity and what it means to be an ‘Ecuadorian.’
Evidence of their culture can be found as far back as 8,800 BC. Yet, their current constitution only dates back to 2008. The people of Ecuador balance allegiances between el país (the country or ‘fatherland’) with an equally strong if not more durable lapatria (the ‘motherland’ or reverential country) that mixes with prevailing indigenous notions of pachamama (‘Mother Earth’). Additionally, the people also balance various complexities of racial and ethnic identity: remnant European influence from the colonial era with the staggering fourteen different ethnic groups, including perhaps the most rallied indigenous groups in the Americas. Politically, Ecuador has felt the brunt of the Washington Consensus epitome of neoliberal capitalism and the newest movement of “radical” neo-populism. Within this new front, the Ecuadorian people see and shape their lives under an unquestionably authoritarian government in contrast with a fervent civic activism and popular mobilization that almost rings of direct democracy. (…Is your head spinning yet?)
There is no question that this diversity has pushed Ecuador to face arduous battles. Yet, what many people have designated to be the roots of Ecuadorian’s dilemmas have actually endowed it with what I’ve found to be a profound courage to examine their own identity and to stand up to domineering forces far larger than their own. As Carlos de La Torre accurately summarized, “Ecuadorians have neither shaped their situations as they have pleased nor have they sat by and waited for global events to overtake them.” I challenge myself and those who read this blog to do the same: to challenge the forces that try to define, limit, or inundate them and to have the courage to look their country’s flaws in the eyes and push for a newer, happier, more millennial future.
What does it mean to accomplish “el Buen Vivir” or, more simply, good living? This question forms the basis of Ecuador’s new constitution and the core component of our “Diversity, Development, and Sustainability” course here in Quito. This program offers a specific case study on how a developing country can harness its natural assets, in Ecuador’s case its outstanding diversity and culture, to achieve economic growth that benefits society as a whole. Latin America remains the most unequal region in the world and through “el Buen Vivir” Ecuador hopes to confront this persistent problem. Though we read extensively about Ecuadorian history, politics, economy, and culture before arriving here, our daily lectures and weekend trips have revealed the many intricacies of this concept, truly bringing it to life.
By now we are halfway through the course and have had the privilege of attending the lectures of many outstanding and knowledgeable intellectuals, from both the public and private sectors. They each offer unique perspectives on development, encouraging us to carefully consider what development involves and how we can go about achieving it. Upon deeper consideration, this proves to be a complex and controversial topic. Much research has been done and much literature has been written concerning the most logical solutions to inequality. The difficulty, however, lies in designing the most beneficial way to implement these ideas through solid and dynamic policies. Once we understand what needs to be done and why it needs to be done, we must figure out how to do it. Through these various presentations, we are slowly gaining the ability to challenge traditional ideas of development and delve deeper into the complexities of reconciling economic goals and the unstoppable effects of globalization with local capabilities and unique cultures.
A lecture last week, from Alberto Acosta, the previous president of the Constitutional Assembly, made a great impression on me. He brought together the various explanations of “el Buen Vivir,” that I had had circling in my head in clouded confusion, offering an articulate and extensive explanation of this concept. He began his presentation by giving a comprehensive overview of the many challenges of social and economic development. Though the accomplishments of mankind in recent history are undeniable, the problems that such progress has caused are also painfully evident. The current global demand for earth and natural resources is one and a half times the amount that actually exists. If we do not find a way modify our lifestyles, this demand could grow to be double the actual amount of earth and resources available. Economic growth can lead to technological advances and innovations, but it can also lead to pollution, waste, exploitation, and social exclusion. Being students of International Affairs, the issues of poverty, hunger, inequality, and global warming were not new to us, but his energetic and empowering lecture helped us to contextualize the basis for this new concept. The ideology of “el Buen Vivir” remains a term under construction. At its basis it calls for a focus on achieving not just financial growth but also a high quality of life for all people in society. If an economy experiences growth and success, all of its members should benefit from that growth. This confronts the issue of inequality head on and pushes the community to develop in a way that is sustainable and fair.
A synthesis of his lecture reveals that a change in the basic mindset of people is necessary to address such a problem as well as a modification of lifestyles. According to Mr. Acosta, all societies need not boil down to create one homogenous lifestyle. Instead, diversity should be respected and nations should retain their various cultures and traditions within a logical and rational framework. He described two limits to keep in mind, one being a limit on usage, or appropriation of resources, and the other being consumption, or a limit on opulence. All in all, global consumption must be moderated. We should consume less and do so more efficiently. Through such an effort, the dream of creating “el Buen Vivir” can become a reality.
The potential of such aspirations could not have been demonstrated clearer than during our trip to Salinas de Bolívar this past weekend. I truly fell in love with this town. A five-hour drive south of Quito, Salinerito, as this township is commonly called, consists of 33 different communities that participate in a bottom-up micro entrepreneurial approach to development. Once a miserably poor region of Ecuador, made of chozas (thatched roof huts) and dirt roads, Salinerito now boasts 98 different projects and an overwhelmingly happy and gratified population. All profits gained through their productions are reinvested back into the community for the benefit of all. Individuals may gain a personal salary depending on their specific contribution to the production of goods.
This project began in the 1970’s during a time of desperate need. The people of Salinas began taking advantage of the abundant salt flats found on their land and designed a process for capitalizing on this resource. Since then this community-based economic project has grown to include chocolate, cheese, herb and oil, mushroom, salami, textile, and even soccer ball factories. They strive to maintain the delicate balance of marketing their goods on a competitive level nationally and internationally while protecting their human values, their culture, and their way of life. This community has fully embraced the diversity of their country and the motivation of their people to create a successful, sustainable economy and a popular tourist destination for both nationals and internationals.
The people of Salinerito still face many challenges but, as the past 40 years have demonstrated, they have the ability to adapt and grow with undeniable spirit and enthusiasm. With every product purchased by the tourists that flow in an out of the community, their initiatives are supported. With every purchase, more rural people are kept from migrating to urban centers and falling victim to the subsequent cycles of poverty and inequality that characterize such need driven migration flows. By simply walking through the town I could feel the solidarity within the community and the genuine happiness of the people there. As one woman explained, carrying her empty milk jug home after her daily trip into town to deliver her share of fresh milk to the cheese factory, they have all they need right there in Salinas: fresh air, good food, and community support. Their well-being remains the only thing that matters and so they show Ecuador, as well as the rest of the world, what it means to strive for “el Buen Vivir.”
The richness of Ecuadorian cuisine derives from the tremendous biodiversity of the country. I have indulged in ceviche (shrimp, muscle, fish, etc.) from the coast, locro (a potato soup unlike any other and served with avocado, pictured above) from the highlands, and yucca from the oriente. Regions often have meals named after cities. For example, Mosaico Cuencano is a plate that is literally a mosaic of meats popular in Cuenca. Plato típico Otavaleño and fritada Quiteña are both fried pork, a specialty of the Ecuadorian capital. The secret to such fine cuisine is the continuous supply of fresh produce. Juices come from fresh fruits, and so far I have savored naranjilla, blackberry, passion fruit, babacoa, pineapple, papaya, melon, and tomate de arbol, to name a few. A common plate is seco de pollo or seco de carne, which consists of rice, a salad, and a meat with a rich sauce. Why it is called seco (literally “dry”) remains a mystery to me.
A favorite quick, fulfilling meal of humitas (cornbread styled wraps with cheese in the middle) and tamales (wrapped in banana leaves) can be found in many storefronts. Women often serve these staples from a series of large pots on street corners. Other great snacks are pan de yucca (bread dollops with cheese inside) and empanadas de verde (inspired by typical Chilean food). Choclo (corn on the cob, roasted over the fire) is an especially delicious snack in rural areas (pictured above).
For the sweetest part of the meal, Ecuador knows how to show off. Helado de kiwi (kiwi ice cream) and mora (black berries) with dulce de zanahoria (caramelized carrot) drizzled on top is beyond delicious. Torta manqueño is like a banana bread cake and can be served with ice cream as well. Additionally, the varieties of cakes with manjar (dulce de leche) or chocolate are always present to temp your sweet tooth. A local chocolate factory in Salinas de Bolivar makes many delicious combinations, for example chocolate con aji (chili pepper), chocolate with pájaro azul (a pure grain liquor), and chololate con soya (soy).
This list is far from complete of all of the savory options that Ecuador provides adventurous eaters. The Ecuadorian food provides insight into the complexity and rich culture within the country. One need not travel far for a new perspective and a new menu.
The word hostel often conveys a picture of dark moldy rooms with 40 squeaky bunk beds where sordid activities sometimes occur. While these places can be exciting for young travelers (wink, wink), you don’t want to spend two months in them while studying intensely. The word hostel does not do justice to the amenities, beauty, and service of “The Owls Inn” in Quito. Even if you are not an animal lover, it is amazing to wake up in the morning and see two kittens sleeping on top of the dog-named Kenya in the beautiful patio of our new home.
On Friday, Don Julio Rivas guided us around charming old town Quito. As we walked around the Spanish colonial architecture, Don Julio entertained the group with infinite historical anecdotes. It was interesting to learn that Panamanian hats actually originated in Ecuador. When the liberal president Eloy Alfaro was exiled to Panama, he brought the stitched hats from his hometown of Montecristo, Ecuador. The Panamanian canal workers wore these Ecuadorian hats to protect themselves from the severe tropical sun. The hats known as Panamanians thus should actually be called Ecuadorians.
Don Julio also told us that the Incas conquered the Ecuadorian tribes in the 1460’s and built paved roads to connect their empire. Messengers or chasquis ran for miles to deliver news throughout the Inca territory. Don Julio gave us a heart-felt speech about how we are now chasquis and it is our duty to tell the world about Quito. This blog will transport our messages like the paved Inca roads of yore, but with a wireless connection. Our blog posts will allow us to serve as messengers or chasquis of Ecuador to the U.S.
Philip Chamberlain
Photos coming soon!
