Ode to Indigenous People in Ecuador

Fuimos a UDLA
Estudiamos mucho
Ya tengo agua
Por las indigenas, lucho
Puro mestizo

Translation:
We went to UDLA
We study a lot
I already have water
For the indigenous, I fight
Pure mestizo

Background for poem:
This short but sweet limerick was written by Victoria Fulton and me. Through poetry, we share with you some of our experiences, our knowledge and the diversity of some of the people we met here in Ecuador.

Throughout these last two weeks, we - along with seven other students - have been studying diversity, development, and sustainability at one of the Universities here in Quito. The name of the University? Universidad de Las Americas - UDLA for short. Each day, we have been diligently studying. The diversity of Ecuador is overwhelming - from its cultural diversity to its biodiversity.

Ecuadoreans consider themselves indigenous, mestizo (mix of indigenous and white), white, or afroecuadorean. The indigenous people in Ecuador have been marginalized throughout history. However, in 1990, an indigenous movement began which showed everyone that indigenous people are equally important, well organized, and deserves the same rights as others. The strength of these indigenous organizations has grown. These organizations have gained political clout that is recognized by the Ecuadorean goverment. Yet we have learned, through our readings and great lectures from Ecuador's top politicos, that many indigenous communities are still some of the poorest communities in this country. For this reason, we fight.

We also fight for the right for everyone to have clean sustainable water. Ecuador is not only considered one of the most biodiverse countries in the world, it is also known to be the "Water Capital of the World" by the Panamerican Health Organization. Ecuador has over 2,000 rivers and streams and is only the size of Colorado! It is important that everyone in Ecuador has a sustaimable supply of clean water. On Thursday, June 23rd, Alberto Acosta, former President of the Constitutional Assembly 2008, informed us that the new 2008 constitution states water as a human right. This is great! We are only here for seven weeks and are able to get clean, cheap drinking water. It is therefore vital that everyone, no matter their socio-economic class, enjoys this same basic human right. Yaku!

Coo Coo for Kakabadse!

Yesterday, we had the immense pleasure of speaking with Yolanda Kakabadse during our class. Yolanda is an impressively accomplished and humble environmentalist from Ecuador. A short list of her outstanding previous accomplishments includes founding the local NGO, Fundación Natura, serving as the Minister of Environment, and acting as NGO Liaison Officer during the Rio Summit. Yolanda Kakabadse is currently the president of the World Wide Fund for Nature. No big deal, right?
We discussed the current environmental challenges facing the country, but rather than get caught up in the frustrations of activism and environmental policy, Yolanda instead inspired us with her current projects regarding the economic potential of Ecuador’s rich biodiversity. She sees great opportunity for economic development through the sustainable use of Ecuador and other Andean countries’ biodiversity in the creation of eco-products. Moving away from the destructive practices that characterize the palm oil, soy, and lumber industries to more sustainable projects working with native plants can provide not only a valuable income source for communities, but also help to preserve the important ecosystems that make Ecuador one of the 17 megadiverse countries of the world. A few of the projects that Yolanda Kakabadse discussed are:
• Butterfly Farms: Ecuador is home to roughly 4000 species of butterflies. A few of these are now farmed in greenhouses for international export to zoos, universities and exhibitions. The farming practices are in accordance with the Convention on Biological Diversity and provide incomes and livelihoods for indigenous communities.
• Guayusa: The Guayusa leaf in Ecuador is boiled and various indigenous communities drink the tea every morning while conversing about the day’s agenda, providing the community with a healthy energy boost and an important social ritual as well. Much like Yerba Mate, Guayusa is a plant that has been in use for generations by those here in South America, but is now catching on in the USA as well. Look for it in your local Whole Foods. The communities that harvest Guayusa for export are all shareholders in the business and practice sustainable planting methods in previously destroyed plots, or their own back yards.
• Bamboo: The Bamboo species native to Ecuador is among the top 5 (of over 1000) species worldwide known for their strength and flexibility. The native plants retain large amounts of water with roots that go very deep to stabilize the soil. Bamboo also multiplies very fast and one plant will return for roughly 50 years without replanting. The bamboo initiative in Ecuador plans to use this local resource to produce quality products for home construction, such as flooring and furniture. The sprouts are edible and the leaf can be used for almost anything, including the possibility of biofuel production. Yolanda was very optimistic about the endless and creative uses of the bamboo plant in Ecuador.

Salinas de Queso

This last weekend we travelled to the small town of Salinas. This is not the Salinas of Hemingway on the lush California coast, but Salinas de Bolivar in the Ecuadorian highlands. The Ecuadorian Salinas is a charming village at an elevation of over 11,000 feet with quilt-like pastures that remind me of the bucolic scenery of Tuscany.

Salinas de Bolivar is an interesting example of community led and organized micro financing projects. An Italian priest, Padre Antonio Polo traveled to the town in 1972 and helped set up cooperatives that diversified the economy beyond the local salt mine with production of milk, cheese, chocolate, turrón candy, mushrooms, and herbs. The town is famous for 12 wild herbs and spices so the possibilities are limitless. They could even open up a KFC :)

Salinas also produces soccer balls. I thought it was interesting that some of the soccer balls made for export said, “Made in Japan” in English. I asked our guide if any part of the balls were made in Japan and he said no that they just put that on the balls because then they sold better in the markets. I just hope that no priest was involved in this engaño. :)

We stayed at the Refugio in town, which is operated by William Ramirez. William is a dignified man with salt and pepper hair. His George Clooney-like demeanor has likely wowed both foreign and local ladies alike. He is very proud of the time he has spent in Salinas and told me he is actually from Salinas. This is dubious however because he speaks Spanish with a European accent. Regardless of his roots, he gave us more fulfilling explanations about the Salinas cooperatives than our guide Patricio whose mellowness was so extreme that I wanted to check his pulse. His tranquil attitude made me wonder what kind of herbs Salinas really exported. :)

William explained to us that the workers in the various industries make minimum wage while those that bring their product to the cooperatives (milk, spices, herbs etc.) earn money based on the weight of their goods. He said the cooperatives are constantly struggling and that the gray in his hair is not a result of old age, but rather stress. William told us that when the cooperatives began to sell turrón candy, a man from the lowland town of Ambato came to Salinas and asked for 10 large boxes of turrónes. The man said he would only accept a very low price because the market was so bad. The cooperative accepted the low price, but after the man left they questioned why the man would buy 10 large boxes if the markets weren’t good. They soon realized that they were taken advantage of.

William emphasized that they have learned a great deal and that the town is not engaged in projects, but rather they are part of a process of development. The cooperatives have struggled with exporting artisanal products abroad because they are competing with more efficient and mechanized Chilean and Argentinean companies. Still, earnings from the cooperatives have built roads, schools, and contributed to the welfare and greater equality of the community. Salinas has been largely successful due to land reform, access to credit, expansion of educational opportunities, infrastructure, promotion of agricultural diversification and the sharing of profits.

The Salinas cooperatives have thrived, but they depend on strong leadership and consensus. The long-term comparative advantage of Salinas is questionable because the emphasis is on “buen vivir” (good living) rather than efficiency. One has to ask if it possible that the larger producers will become so much more efficient than Salinas that Salinas will be unable to compete in international markets? Despite the potential fragility of the Salinas cooperatives, they are part of a process and it is indubitable that they will continue to evolve and adapt. I hope that Salinas continues to succeed with the communal solidarity that has held them together for the past 40 years and provides a small-scale alternative to the massive consumption and production of modern society, which we know is definitely not sustainable.

Brave New Ecuador

Ecuador might be a small country, weighing in at only 109,483 sq miles and roughly 14 million in population, but its land and its people have experienced more challenges and evolution in a decade than some countries have in a century. Within the shifting tides of influences over the Ecuadorian people, some interesting contrasts emerge that can only make one question how on earth the people here can build a consensus as to their collective identity and what it means to be an ‘Ecuadorian.’

Evidence of their culture can be found as far back as 8,800 BC. Yet, their current constitution only dates back to 2008. The people of Ecuador balance allegiances between el país (the country or ‘fatherland’) with an equally strong if not more durable lapatria (the ‘motherland’ or reverential country) that mixes with prevailing indigenous notions of pachamama (‘Mother Earth’). Additionally, the people also balance various complexities of racial and ethnic identity: remnant European influence from the colonial era with the staggering fourteen different ethnic groups, including perhaps the most rallied indigenous groups in the Americas. Politically, Ecuador has felt the brunt of the Washington Consensus epitome of neoliberal capitalism and the newest movement of “radical” neo-populism. Within this new front, the Ecuadorian people see and shape their lives under an unquestionably authoritarian government in contrast with a fervent civic activism and popular mobilization that almost rings of direct democracy. (…Is your head spinning yet?)

There is no question that this diversity has pushed Ecuador to face arduous battles. Yet, what many people have designated to be the roots of Ecuadorian’s dilemmas have actually endowed it with what I’ve found to be a profound courage to examine their own identity and to stand up to domineering forces far larger than their own. As Carlos de La Torre accurately summarized, “Ecuadorians have neither shaped their situations as they have pleased nor have they sat by and waited for global events to overtake them.” I challenge myself and those who read this blog to do the same: to challenge the forces that try to define, limit, or inundate them and to have the courage to look their country’s flaws in the eyes and push for a newer, happier, more millennial future.

"El Buen Vivir"

What does it mean to accomplish “el Buen Vivir” or, more simply, good living? This question forms the basis of Ecuador’s new constitution and the core component of our “Diversity, Development, and Sustainability” course here in Quito. This program offers a specific case study on how a developing country can harness its natural assets, in Ecuador’s case its outstanding diversity and culture, to achieve economic growth that benefits society as a whole. Latin America remains the most unequal region in the world and through “el Buen Vivir” Ecuador hopes to confront this persistent problem. Though we read extensively about Ecuadorian history, politics, economy, and culture before arriving here, our daily lectures and weekend trips have revealed the many intricacies of this concept, truly bringing it to life.

By now we are halfway through the course and have had the privilege of attending the lectures of many outstanding and knowledgeable intellectuals, from both the public and private sectors. They each offer unique perspectives on development, encouraging us to carefully consider what development involves and how we can go about achieving it. Upon deeper consideration, this proves to be a complex and controversial topic. Much research has been done and much literature has been written concerning the most logical solutions to inequality. The difficulty, however, lies in designing the most beneficial way to implement these ideas through solid and dynamic policies. Once we understand what needs to be done and why it needs to be done, we must figure out how to do it. Through these various presentations, we are slowly gaining the ability to challenge traditional ideas of development and delve deeper into the complexities of reconciling economic goals and the unstoppable effects of globalization with local capabilities and unique cultures.

A lecture last week, from Alberto Acosta, the previous president of the Constitutional Assembly, made a great impression on me. He brought together the various explanations of “el Buen Vivir,” that I had had circling in my head in clouded confusion, offering an articulate and extensive explanation of this concept. He began his presentation by giving a comprehensive overview of the many challenges of social and economic development. Though the accomplishments of mankind in recent history are undeniable, the problems that such progress has caused are also painfully evident. The current global demand for earth and natural resources is one and a half times the amount that actually exists. If we do not find a way modify our lifestyles, this demand could grow to be double the actual amount of earth and resources available. Economic growth can lead to technological advances and innovations, but it can also lead to pollution, waste, exploitation, and social exclusion. Being students of International Affairs, the issues of poverty, hunger, inequality, and global warming were not new to us, but his energetic and empowering lecture helped us to contextualize the basis for this new concept. The ideology of “el Buen Vivir” remains a term under construction. At its basis it calls for a focus on achieving not just financial growth but also a high quality of life for all people in society. If an economy experiences growth and success, all of its members should benefit from that growth. This confronts the issue of inequality head on and pushes the community to develop in a way that is sustainable and fair.

A synthesis of his lecture reveals that a change in the basic mindset of people is necessary to address such a problem as well as a modification of lifestyles. According to Mr. Acosta, all societies need not boil down to create one homogenous lifestyle. Instead, diversity should be respected and nations should retain their various cultures and traditions within a logical and rational framework. He described two limits to keep in mind, one being a limit on usage, or appropriation of resources, and the other being consumption, or a limit on opulence. All in all, global consumption must be moderated. We should consume less and do so more efficiently. Through such an effort, the dream of creating “el Buen Vivir” can become a reality.

The potential of such aspirations could not have been demonstrated clearer than during our trip to Salinas de Bolívar this past weekend. I truly fell in love with this town. A five-hour drive south of Quito, Salinerito, as this township is commonly called, consists of 33 different communities that participate in a bottom-up micro entrepreneurial approach to development. Once a miserably poor region of Ecuador, made of chozas (thatched roof huts) and dirt roads, Salinerito now boasts 98 different projects and an overwhelmingly happy and gratified population. All profits gained through their productions are reinvested back into the community for the benefit of all. Individuals may gain a personal salary depending on their specific contribution to the production of goods.

This project began in the 1970’s during a time of desperate need. The people of Salinas began taking advantage of the abundant salt flats found on their land and designed a process for capitalizing on this resource. Since then this community-based economic project has grown to include chocolate, cheese, herb and oil, mushroom, salami, textile, and even soccer ball factories. They strive to maintain the delicate balance of marketing their goods on a competitive level nationally and internationally while protecting their human values, their culture, and their way of life. This community has fully embraced the diversity of their country and the motivation of their people to create a successful, sustainable economy and a popular tourist destination for both nationals and internationals.

The people of Salinerito still face many challenges but, as the past 40 years have demonstrated, they have the ability to adapt and grow with undeniable spirit and enthusiasm. With every product purchased by the tourists that flow in an out of the community, their initiatives are supported. With every purchase, more rural people are kept from migrating to urban centers and falling victim to the subsequent cycles of poverty and inequality that characterize such need driven migration flows. By simply walking through the town I could feel the solidarity within the community and the genuine happiness of the people there. As one woman explained, carrying her empty milk jug home after her daily trip into town to deliver her share of fresh milk to the cheese factory, they have all they need right there in Salinas: fresh air, good food, and community support. Their well-being remains the only thing that matters and so they show Ecuador, as well as the rest of the world, what it means to strive for “el Buen Vivir.”

Sabor Ecuatorian

My personal eating philosophy in Ecuador is to order from the menu whatever I do not recognize but am still able to pronounce. This “adventure eating” has yet to disappoint and is enriching my Ecuador experience through taste, smell and sight. Knowing Spanish does not always help when reading menus due to the strong influence of indigenous cultures in local delicacies. Some traditional foods, such as quinoa (a grain), are familiar to me, whereas others, such as cuy (guinea pic) are not. I found cuy to be tasty when roasted and accompanied by one of the many (many!) types of bananas that accompany Ecuadorian meals. Patacones (fried plantain deliciousness) are the new staple in my diet. The diversity of food offers insight into the diversity of the country, a recurring theme of the class. Indigenous influences are prevalent with many varieties of potatoes, corns and bananas.

The richness of Ecuadorian cuisine derives from the tremendous biodiversity of the country. I have indulged in ceviche (shrimp, muscle, fish, etc.) from the coast, locro (a potato soup unlike any other and served with avocado, pictured above) from the highlands, and yucca from the oriente. Regions often have meals named after cities. For example, Mosaico Cuencano is a plate that is literally a mosaic of meats popular in Cuenca. Plato típico Otavaleño and fritada Quiteña are both fried pork, a specialty of the Ecuadorian capital. The secret to such fine cuisine is the continuous supply of fresh produce. Juices come from fresh fruits, and so far I have savored naranjilla, blackberry, passion fruit, babacoa, pineapple, papaya, melon, and tomate de arbol, to name a few. A common plate is seco de pollo or seco de carne, which consists of rice, a salad, and a meat with a rich sauce. Why it is called seco (literally “dry”) remains a mystery to me.

A favorite quick, fulfilling meal of humitas (cornbread styled wraps with cheese in the middle) and tamales (wrapped in banana leaves) can be found in many storefronts. Women often serve these staples from a series of large pots on street corners. Other great snacks are pan de yucca (bread dollops with cheese inside) and empanadas de verde (inspired by typical Chilean food). Choclo (corn on the cob, roasted over the fire) is an especially delicious snack in rural areas (pictured above).

For the sweetest part of the meal, Ecuador knows how to show off. Helado de kiwi (kiwi ice cream) and mora (black berries) with dulce de zanahoria (caramelized carrot) drizzled on top is beyond delicious. Torta manqueño is like a banana bread cake and can be served with ice cream as well. Additionally, the varieties of cakes with manjar (dulce de leche) or chocolate are always present to temp your sweet tooth. A local chocolate factory in Salinas de Bolivar makes many delicious combinations, for example chocolate con aji (chili pepper), chocolate with pájaro azul (a pure grain liquor), and chololate con soya (soy).

This list is far from complete of all of the savory options that Ecuador provides adventurous eaters. The Ecuadorian food provides insight into the complexity and rich culture within the country. One need not travel far for a new perspective and a new menu.

QUE CHEVERE!

Well, we have all been here a week now and it has been an eye-opening experience to say the least. Since landing in Quito I could not help but constantly look out the window and gaze at the natural and historical wonders that encompass this beautiful country. I was told of the diversity that existed within Ecuador but to witness it first hand at the Otavalo Market, was beneficial in that you gain an understanding of what they mean by a multi-cultural society. What has amazed me thus far is the combination that exists between the historical and modern aspect of Ecuador, specifically in "Old Town" which has an amazing assortment of beautifully old intact churches and modern shops for all. What also stood out in stark contrast to what we are all used to in America is the lively, vibrant and passionate culture that permeates throughout this city and nowhere was this more prevalent then the futbol (soccer) match between Liga v Olmedo de Riobamba.

The match consisted of front row tickets for a bank breaking 6$ (insert laugh), great 2$ drinks (insert smile/anger because in the US it would cost 8$) and passionate fans who were shooting off fireworks and were constantly cheering in unison creating an unrivaled atmosphere that can not be replicated. The only bad thing to come out of this was the unwarranted sun burn that I have received, which has now been cured :).

For those who are unaware this is the first time American University has opened a study abroad program in Quito, Ecuador and thus far it has been nothing short of amazing; obtaining first-hand and on the ground experience is something I would recommend to all who are interested.

Until I blog again....Chao!

Laguna de Cuicocha

Last weekend we had the opportunity to visit the Laguna de Cuicocha in Cotacachi province. After a nice drive through the mountains we arrived to find a stunning view of the lake, located in the crater of an active volcano. The name Cuicocha comes from the Quichua words cocha, meaning lake, and cuy (cui), meaning guinea pig. Like Ecuador as a whole, Cuicocha is home to a wide array of biodiversity, including mountain guinea pigs. Cuy are a local delicacy here, eaten during festivals and on special occasions. I hope to have the chance to try some before the summer is over!

Of Ecuador's seventeen indigenous groups, the Quichua are the largest nacionalidad. Nacionalidades are language-based (Quichua was the official Incan language), but are then further divided into culturally-based pueblos. Around 25% of Ecuador's 12.5 million population are indigenous, although only 7.5% self-identified as indigenous in the last census. Data from the 2010 census has yet to be released, but it will be interesting to see if self-identification increases among indigenous populations, as indigenous groups have gained significant political and social standing over the past decade.

Old Town Quito

Chasquis

The word hostel often conveys a picture of dark moldy rooms with 40 squeaky bunk beds where sordid activities sometimes occur. While these places can be exciting for young travelers (wink, wink), you don’t want to spend two months in them while studying intensely. The word hostel does not do justice to the amenities, beauty, and service of “The Owls Inn” in Quito. Even if you are not an animal lover, it is amazing to wake up in the morning and see two kittens sleeping on top of the dog-named Kenya in the beautiful patio of our new home.

On Friday, Don Julio Rivas guided us around charming old town Quito. As we walked around the Spanish colonial architecture, Don Julio entertained the group with infinite historical anecdotes. It was interesting to learn that Panamanian hats actually originated in Ecuador. When the liberal president Eloy Alfaro was exiled to Panama, he brought the stitched hats from his hometown of Montecristo, Ecuador. The Panamanian canal workers wore these Ecuadorian hats to protect themselves from the severe tropical sun. The hats known as Panamanians thus should actually be called Ecuadorians.

Don Julio also told us that the Incas conquered the Ecuadorian tribes in the 1460’s and built paved roads to connect their empire. Messengers or chasquis ran for miles to deliver news throughout the Inca territory. Don Julio gave us a heart-felt speech about how we are now chasquis and it is our duty to tell the world about Quito. This blog will transport our messages like the paved Inca roads of yore, but with a wireless connection. Our blog posts will allow us to serve as messengers or chasquis of Ecuador to the U.S.

Philip Chamberlain

Photos coming soon!